Wednesday, January 13, 2016

jože plečnik's intellectual style in ljubljana

Plecnik's Sluice Gate, 1939, at Ljublijanica River by SAL
To take classical architectural forms and to play games with the precepts that command their forms is a baroque idea that Jože Plečnik perfected by 1929. My favorite architect of all time has been Le Corbusier since my first year of architectural history studies at Sarah Lawrence College. However, my love for Plečnik's work is taking a close second threatening to overhaul Le Corbusier's throne.



Plečnik was not only a master of geometrical forms, he was clearly well versed in not only classical architectural language but also in every single iteration of the classical architectural styles that architects have tinkered with for generations since, i.e. Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Beaux Arts, Neo-Renaissance, etc., etc.

With the column capital above, one sees a roman ionic form with a beautiful woman's face peeking through. To replicate something that is so commonly understood as an ionic column capital and to then add a sculptural figure into the middle of an established form is indeed a baroque ideal.

Her hair looks like the wavy decoration as well on a classical ionic capital. Wait a minute... isn't the iconic supposed to be a representation of the female? Yes, Plečnik was playing with the baroque as late as 1939?! (The Baroque came and went between the years of 1600-1750.) Very interesting.

Plecnik's Sluice Gate, 1939, at Ljublijanica River by SAL
Plečnik is practically responsible for all of the great architecture and even the city planning success in Ljubljana. I cannot explain to you how much it felt like I was on a very exciting scavenger hunt in Ljubljana to find all of his works... or like being in a candy shop. His works are everywhere. Every time he is playing with classic (not always specifically "greek and roman classical") architectural forms, he made up a jeux of sorts with them.
Plecnik Structure in Lubiana by SAL
The main cemetery in Ljubljana is also speckled with Plečnik's works. I believe the small building above is one such funerary structure. However, I am not completely sure. A play on scale and a play on classical language is at work again in this building. He commands a gorgeous understanding of pure geometry in every one of his works.

I love how the ionic coils on the building above turn into coils that are far more three-dimensional. One set of columns are rectilinear and the other is circular. In fact, the overall building's form is a Grecian temple, done twice. Then, we see a play on spherical forms scattered about in the light fixture, the coils on the iconic columns, the circular caps on the half-sized columns on the sides.

Lastly, the experience of going to Ljubljana via train from Austria was quite dramatic. Unfortunately, Slovenia's economy is fairly depressed. The people there are incredibly kind and lovely of the highest level. I was hardly able to use up the smallest derivation (such as $20 USD) Slovenian money that I withdrew from the ATM nearest the train station within two days of lodging and food combined.

There are beautiful little courtyards, parks, alleys, buildings everywhere! I need to go back and this time, I will be much more focused. When I went to Ljubljana the first time, all I knew about Plečnik was his Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, 1921, in Prague. I had no idea what kind of incredible treasures I was about to find.

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